XXXX MAGAZINE SPRING SUMMER 2010 RUNWAY REPORT ? NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

XXXX MAGAZINE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SPRING/SUMMER 2010 TREND REPORT

Reporting by Indira Cesarine assisted by Cristina Cuyco for XXXX Magazine

New York, September 10-17, 2009
By the time the first models were on the runways in New York, it was clear summer was over and a new season had begun. XXXX Magazine hit the shows to check out the latest trends coming out of New York fashion week… there was an interesting energy of new and old hitting the city with the new Mac & Milk space set up at Milk Studios creating a modern venue for shows and presentations, as well out with the old… as the last season of fashion week at Bryant Park set the stage for an end to an era in New York. What were the major trends that came out of such a setting? Between the 139 shows and 69 presentation on the calendar, New York forecasted many trends that later hit the international runways of London, Paris and Milan…

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X ? NEUTRAL X NEUTRAL

In a fight to keep sales up in the credit crunch, designers veered towards classic shades that hold timeless appeal… clothing that can be worn again and again, and can be staple pieces in any wardrobe. Clean, crisp, safe and of course neutral … shades of white, grey and beige or khaki made up almost exclusively the color palette of many shows… simple, clean aesthetics for a conservative wallet…
The collections of Adam, Christian Siriano, Doo-ri, Elise Overland, G-Star, Herve Leger, Jeremy Laing, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Marc Jacobs, Max Azria, Monarchy, Tadashi Shoji, Tommy Hilfiger and Vassilios who maintained monotone neutral looks…

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X ? THE ART OF COLLAGING

High craft fashion has invaded the New York runways. Patchworking, Cutouts, peek-a-boo slits, and clashing fabric textures layered and sewn together created a new treatment to fabric that we haven?t seen since the 70?s. This modern translation of traditional patchworking deserves it?s own term, as it is an art onto itself. Fabric pieces and layers are integrated with woven effects and unusual fabric treatments that make the art of ?collaging? a new look for 2010.

Designers who presented looks with these kind of elements were 3.1 Phillip Lim, Behnaz Sarafpour, Herve Leger, Jill Stuart, Marc Jacobs, Max Azria, Herv? L?ger, Rodarte, Thakoon, Thuy, Y-3 and Zac Posen. Rodarte’s collages of burnt plaid cheesecloth, sandpapered silk, and woven leather braid skirts and vests stood out as some of the strongest designs with this effect.

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X ?ASYMMETRICAL

Following from the fall/winter ?09 trend of one-shouldered looks, spring collections once again showcased more than ever asymmetrical designs. There were 80?s body-con versions, 90?s architectural takes and 70?s ruffled romantic looks hitting the runways all with asymmetrical cuts shaping the silhouette.
A recurring theme throughout the week, this season it has grown in strength with designers such as Calvin Klein, Mark Jacobs, BCBG Max Azria, Halston, Jason Wu, Jill Stuart, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Marchesa, Matthew Ames, Milly, Nicolas K, Tadashi Shoji, Thuy, Tommy Hilfiger, Vassilios, Y-3, Yigal Azrouel and Zac Posen cutting their fabrics with asymmetrical lines.

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X ? ROMANCE AND RUFFLES

It was all about frills and romance as Spring 2010 heralds the return of romantic dressing. Light and fluid fabrics floated down the runways with ruffles and frills reminiscent of 70?s backlit summer days. Long free flowing skirts, ruffles and exposed lingerie presented a softer?touch for spring.

Designers who had a love affair this season with ruffles and frills were Adam Lippes, BCBG Max Azria, Christian Siriano, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Mara Hoffman, Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, Monarchy, Narciso Rodriguez, Tadashi Shoji, Tibi, Vivienne Tam and Zac Posen.

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X ? DESERT TRIBAL

Ethnic prints, animal motifs, geometric tribal patterns, turbans, harem pants and chunky jewelry with a modern Marrakech feel hit the runways throughout the city. Tight hair pulled back with a high braid or hair wrapped in turbans and even the ?genie? headscarf look completed the effect of tribal dressing.

Catherine Malandrino was one of the designers most noted for celebrating this look with her collection based on nomadic tribes from Africa. Others include Diane Von Furstenberg, Custo Barcelona, Rosa Cha, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler.

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X ?TANGERINE DREAM

One color that was impossible to miss this season with the infiltration of Orange everywhere. Many collections only showed neutrals with slices of orange thrown in for a bit of flavor. Traditionally the color orange stands for courage, so perhaps this is a statement of the times to be courageous. With all the 70?s references floating about it?s hard not to also forget that Orange was The color of the 70?s.
Which New York designers sent Orange tones down the runway? 3.1 Philip Lim, Diane Von Furstenberg, Elise Overland, Marc Jacobs, Milly, Monique Lhuillier, Rosa Cha, Thuy and Anna Sui among many more…

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Videos edited by Lindsey Ren?e WARNER exclusively for XXXX Magazine.

Photography of New York runways by Shawna Simmons for XXXX Magazine ( 3.1 Philip Lim, Alexander Herchcovitch, Anna Sui, Barbara T Fank, Bespoken, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Diane Von Furstenberg, Doo.Ri, Generic Denim, Herve Leger, Jeremy Lang, Mara Hoffman, Marc Jacobs, Matthew Ames, Max Azaria, Milly, Monarchy, Nicholas K, Petrou, Rosa Cha, Temperly London, Thuy, Tommy Hilfiger, Twinkle, Vassilios, Vivienne Tam, Whitney Eve, Yigal Azrouel ) additional imagery provided by perspective showrooms or courtesy of Style.com.