XXXX MAGAZINE FALL FASHION TREND REPORT NEW YORK RUNWAYS

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X FALL RUNWAY REPORT NYC
Reporting by Indira Cesarine assisted by Cristina Cucyo for XXXX Magazine

XXXX MAGAZINE checked out the latest fashion trends of Fall 2009 at New York Fashion Week. ?Amongst the chaos of over 155 shows that hit the runways there were several major trends that were not to be missed… the 80?s were everywhere… punk 80?s, glam 80?s, disco 80?s… the classic hourglass shape of the 40?s was highly visible on the catwalk, as well as architectural looks with graphic silhouettes…

X 80?s FEVER

80?s Fever is back. One of the main themes of New York?s Fashion week, this fall you will find yourself wearing leather jackets, metallic mini dresses, graphic tees, sequins, black leather jeans and even shoulder pads which are back in full force. Glamorous and hard, tough and chic looks perfect to rock the pavement and hit the dance floor. MARC JACOBS channeled the 80?s in both his main line and for Louis Vuitton, a clear indicator that this is the look for fall…. Yigal Azrouel, William Rast, Thakoon, Miss Sixty, Kai Kuhne, Thaakon, Herv? Leger… the list goes on of other New York designers who were inspired by these looks for fall …

X SEXY PUNK

Glam Punk is the comeback that never went away. The sexy goth girl and 80?s punk chic was an alternative 80?s look to the disco divas. Punkers are never without their leather and mesh, spray-on leggings, and slashed latex all of course worn with the prerequisite black eyeliner.? Mark Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Deisel Black Gold, Miss Sixty, William Rast, Yigal Azrouel Custo Barcelona and Rodarte were among some of the designers who threw punk looks down the runways.

X? ARCHITECTURAL INVASION

Strong cuts, bold geometric patterns fitted to the body or draped with layers and always marked by strong shoulders make up the architectural looks for fall. Fransisco Costa at Calvin Klein was most noted in New York for his defined collection which showed strong geometric patterns and sculptural silhouettes. Kai Kuhne?s strong graphic shapes created a modern Joan Crawford look with architectural finishes. Three as Four, Zac Posen, Thuy, Proenza Shouler, Herve Leger, and Rodarte also showed looks with an architectural edge.

X WARTIME FASHION

Structured hour glass shapes with tiny waists and form fitting knee length skirts contouring the figure is what the fashion of the 1940?s were all about.? In these uncertain economic times, it is no surprise that designers found inspiration from this era. The retro look hit the runways with ladylike chic. Silhouettes this season with wool skirt suits, tweed dresses, sheer blouses, and sophisticated nipped-waists were all about the 40?s. On an edgier note, some designers were inspired by this era but showed looks with a modern twist, including tight silhouettes in materials like leather with an subtle architectural edge. Michael Kors, Thakoon, DKNY, Michelle Obama?s favorite Jason Wu, Ruffian and on the more glamorous side, Zac Posen?s collection, had the flavor of this era.

X CUSTO!

XXXX MAGAZINE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, INDIRA CESARINE, MEETS UP WITH DESIGNER CUSTO BARCELONA

During the frenzy of fashion week I managed to hook up with the trendy and eco-friendly designer Custo Barcelona, as he was preparing for his show. In between the madness of models during their fittings and other reporters popping in for interviews we sat down to talk about his latest collection.? Custo has been showing at New York fashion week since 1997, and has become famous for his bright colored graphic textile designs, and hippy chic direction. Hailing from Spain (of course!) he prefers to show in New York, so his collection can get the exposure it needs to be on an international level. His latest collection is his most sophisticated yet, with an ?eco-glam? theme.? It is a fusion of graphics, colors and textiles, mixing references to animals and nature with a Victorian romanticism. Custo only uses synthetic/organic fabrics. Vocally anti-fur with his collection, he maintains the eco quality of his textiles by for example creating faux fur out of bamboo.? He presented to me some of his latest looks, which all have hidden references to the earth and nature. On one of his designs, the hand made embroidery on the fabric represents the ?rivers?, the circles on others represent ?the world? and his favorite is a dress that exemplifies the ?rainforest?.? Wearing his clothes you can be self- assured you are promoting pro environmental concerns inside and out…?? We love his anti-exploitation approach!

COLLECTIONS PHOTOGRAPHED BY KAZ STRANKOWSKI AND BLAKE JOHNSON FOR XXXX MAGAZINE