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| SUNDAY FEBRUARY 5TH, 2012 | |||||||||||
Drawing inspiration from the classic sci-fi book series “Dune” by Frank Herbert, designer Lie Sang Bong’s Spring 2010 collection offered an interstellar mix of impeccably sculpted pieces in shades of white, cream and shimmering metallics. The shows highlights included ruche shift dresses, sheared leggings and trousers in folded layers. His unconventional draping and fabric choices gave an architectural dimension to this other worldly show.
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Inspired by her homeland of Ireland, Sharon Wauchob bridged traditional and modern styles with a romantic and feminine line. Handmade and embroidered lace was spliced onto dresses and shirts then paired with silky drop crotch pants or drawstring boxers. High volume shoulder pads and ruffled fronts were the perfect addition to give this sweet collection the right amount of edge.
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With all the doom and gloom in the world lately we?re not surprised that some designers have gone back to basics and a more minimal aesthetic. In Bruno Pieters latest collection there was no colour and he opened the show with a bandage like tone of nude that eventually progressed onto white and black. The looks were then finished with neutral clear plastic wedge heeled sandals and some with a monastic but elegant hood. The only flourish being the two dresses, one in white the other black embellished with what looked like crystal and granite. The collection showcased two main techniques, body consciously tight draping and Bruno Pieters? skill for dissecting the female body into squares and hexagons that gave the models a modern silhouette. Modern day and wearable Cubism.
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German born designer Lutz Huelle has been showing in Paris since 1998 but only as of recent has the collection been stronger on the radar. After pairing with his business partner David Ballu and a project with photographer Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio his line has gained much recognition in the fashion world. Known for his deconstruction with designs and loose draping Lutz’s S/S 2010 line did not dissapiont.
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As the models paused, at the start of the fan blown runway and the enchanting tunes of Smog filled the Mus?e de L?homme, watching the AF Vandevorst collection we were immediately transported to a place where the romance of being in a far away land inspired authors, movies and adventurers. The wind blown hair of the models and the softness of silk chiffon in earth tones was contrasted and worn over nude, what looked like plastic coated chest pieces bound together by gold rivets. Structure in the way of a corset was contrasted and layered underneath or on top of flowing fabrics. Any billowing and volume tamed by leather belts or tucked into nude retro stockings or underwear. With sleeves and leg lengths exaggerated, the silk chiffon jumpsuits and the two toned coat were standout pieces. The show was a stylist?s dream. We loved the play on contrasts and the drama of the show was poetic. Some of the chest pieces may not have been the most practical thing to wear but any girl with any sense of fashion know how could re-work most of the pieces into a modern wearable wardrobe.
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As a longtime collaborator with the art and design worlds top talents it seems only natural that Addidas would team up again with Jeremy Scott to launch a new line of sneakers and rock star inspired clothing with the artist. After the success of his special edition sneakers, the new collection of clothing pieces, inspired by legends such as Elvis, Michael Jackson and Prince, were as eccentric as can be expected by Jeremy Scott. The presentation was held at a warehouse style space off of Rue de la Roquette near Bastille. ?Jeremy hid out in the back and showed his face for TV interviews as they came in, as we perused the collection in the front room with the PR’s. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take any photos, although they did give us 3 free Adidas originals key-rings!
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Reporting by Indira Cesarine and Wil Ariyamethe, ?photography by Earnest Aregail Salgot and David Chen exclusively for XXXX MAGAZINE, 2009
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