PARIS S/S 2010: CHAPURIN, DICE KAYEK, SACAI, CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS, PAULE KA, BRUNO FRISONI & VANTAN TOKYO

CHAPURIN

Chapurin opened his show with Naomi Campbell in a corset, crowned with black flowers in her hair, which delighted the fashion crowd and immediately filled Le Carrousel du Louvre with rockstar cheering. This set the tone for the rest of the show as it remained upbeat and fun. Not inspirational fashion, but a lot of fun. The Chapurin girls’ ready to wear wardrobe was ready to party and with assets like those, no one argues if you want to show them off. Once again the theme of inner wear as outer wear was key. Mesh corsets were layered with a tiny couple of inches of draped fabric to form a mini dress. Think under dressed Grecian gone 80’s. We enjoyed some of the more understated dresses that covered nipples, but perhaps nipple added to the feel of the collection? The collection was titled, Nymphs so we think this maybe so. Throw in a few hoods, ankle boots and a couple more embellished mini dresses to add to the vibe and you have the look of what the girls will be clubbing in next summer.

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DICE KAYAK

The presentation of the Spring/Summer 2010 collection took place at the Ritz Bar, Paris as part of a preview of the Turkish Season in France. It also coincides with the exhibition, ‘From Byzantium to Istanbul’ at the Grand Palais. As a Turkish designer, Ece Ege wanted to explore influences of Istanbul as a source of inspiration for this collection. Dice Kayek transcribes the city’s dualism of modernity and tradition. Each piece of clothing is a slice of life from Istanbul. Couture cocktail dresses gained their form from obvious inspirations such colours of the Turkish flag and opulence of Turkish night life. Subtleties such as oil slicks on roads or birds in the plazas were also a wealth of inspiration. From the clothing we feel the form of the Galata Bridge translated by the rich metallic embroidery on tops and the architecture of the mosques translated into immaculately constructed sculptural waves on shoulders of dresses. From jackets we feel the plume of the birds and from the palette the sweet delights and spices found on the streets.

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SACAI

After 10 years of the labels’ strong presence in major high end boutiques all over the world, this is the premiere season for Sacai’s showings to press in Paris. Already stocked in prestigious stores, such as Barneys, Colette and Dover Street Market. Sacai’s aesthetic is based on the concepts of contrasts. Contrasting fabrics mixed together in one piece. Contrasting textures in the same article of clothing or contrasting ideals of mixing the masculine and the feminine. Comprising of nude, grey, navy, lilac and black the collection is mainly of classics that are deconstructed and made new again with raw edges or surprising details. From their version of the classic trench, jackets and shirting, it is evident that Sacai has had experience working with the likes of Comme des Garcon’s Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. Every piece is wearable yet unique.

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CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

For inspiration of this spring/summer 2010, Christian Wijnants lent for it’s title, the name of French painter born in Japan, Léonard-Tsuguharu Foujita. His name romantically translates to the ‘Fields of Wisteria and Peace’. This current Christian Wijnants collection was so delicate, sensuous and tactile they almost asked to be touched. Also gaining inspiration from white barn owls, foxes, cats and other animals of the night the clothing resembled luxurious furs and birds’ feathers. In colours of pearlescent white, grey, moss and black the raw edged light and airy garments were adorned with similar freyed scarves that added to the plume effect. We liked the dreamy feel to the collection and the pieces were as fine as the lightest silks that were used.

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PAULE KA

For Spring/Summer 2010, Serge Cajfinger has come up with a radical new vision for the Paule Ka classics lending themselves to experimentation in every form. What he calls, ‘fifties couture, rewritten in the minimalist hands of the nineties to satisfy the desires of today’ or ‘Hitchcock heroines, 2010 style.’ We adored the collection. Eccentric volume and shapes, black patent and bright colours accentuate the standout pieces. Rich colours only to be described by precious gems such as citrine, amethyst, emeralds and rubies. The accessories for the collection, desirable. The jewellery and belts more like little pieces of contemporary art and statement shoes were structured platforms of modern architecture.

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BRUNO FRISONI

After starting his footwear career 10 years ago working at design houses such as Lanvin, Christian Lacroix and Yves Staint Laurent, Bruno Frisoni has become a powerful force in the shoe world. This seasons heels are boasting high gloss and shine and like always the brand pairs an exciting combination of sex, elegance and chicness all wrapped up into one perfect shoe.

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VANTAN TOKYO

Showcasing some of Japans’ young and upcoming designers, VANTAN TOKYO was a treat to lovers of all things Japanese. Everyone was given copies of The Senken, handed out plenty of sushi and the mood was Tokyo’s Harajuku. The designers featured: Aguri Sagimori, Satoshi Hiramoto (Chaolu lab), Tomoe Ishikawa (KINO), Ohal Ando (Ohal*), Nobuko Nakamura (Quantize), Shiho Shiroma (she) Masanori Fukasawa (TAGO), Masahiko Maruyama (nude) and collective group of designers from KOTSU-KOTSU. For young designers their collections had a promising starts. Some of the fabrics exceptional and even the fabrics for t-shirting were exquisite. Not all the aesthetics of the every label caught our attention but there was some stand out talents in the group, namely Aguri Sagimori, nude, she and KINO.

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Reporting by Wil Ariyamethe and Indira Cesarine; Photography by Earnest Aregail Salgot and David Chen exclusively for XXXX MAGAZINE, 2009