PARIS FASHION WEEK READY TO WEAR 2010: JASMINE DI MILO, JASMIN SANTANEN, JUNKO SHIMADA, LIE SANG BONG, LUTZ, MANISH ARORA

JASMINE DI MILO

Coining her Pret-a-Porter collection “The Puzzle Factory”, designer Jasmine Al Fayed provided us the explanation for her one unwearable piece from the line; a one-shouldered 3-D dress composed of large stark jigsaw pieces. This Jasmine Di Milo collection mixed contemporary pieces with always popular party frocks.? A gorgeous black beaded harlequin mini dress or blue printed velvet frock would be ideal for any cocktail party and fur jackets and cloth coats completed the after-dark ensembles.

JASMIN SANTANEN

Citing the Cold War as the source of inspiration for her current collection, Finland-born, New York educated, and Paris-based fashion designer Jasmin Santanen has managed to convey a noteworthy winter collection to satisfy modern women across the globe.? Spending the majority of her childhood in Finland (with its close proximity to Russia) and counting relatives in East Germany could explain her fascination with the Cold War and how it might translate onto the runway.? Her palette comprised mainly of strong whites with materials like luxurious silks and glossy satins, Santanen?s F/W line is undoubtedly a tribute to a classic femininity. The pieces are slender yet structured, giving a sense of subtlety and elegance.

JUNKO SHIMADA

Designers Junko Shimada and Francois Agostini created a truly original collection for the Japanese design house of Junko Shimada. Sheer knit fabrics were ornamented with bold designs, ruched-neck sheer tops, and fur lined dresses were all gorgeously executed. The architectural brown silk dress with pleated chiffon layers was particulary stunning, while black and white striped leather dresses and candy colored heart-adorned skirts made loud statements. For outerwear the duo presented a remarkable white coat with striped fur lining and trim in several variations that was matched with this seasons mixed media trend. Candy-striped platform wedges matched with hair enveloping hats completed each ensemble.

LIE SANG BONG

Held at the Hotel Westin in Paris, this year Korean designer Lie Sang Bong went with a very futuristic, almost space-aged ready-to-wear collection including wide woven belts, leather dresses with matching architectural capes and beautifully draped jackets in plush silks and jersey blends. Several of the garments accompanied by matching motorcycle helmets (bearing prints and made from studded glossy plastics) along with platform leather booties, delivered flawless results. Many of the the more “showy” pieces weren’t necessarily meant for daily wear but the accessories could easily be used to finish off the perfect party outfit; in particular: the extra wide belt inlaid with mother of pearl fragments and matching gloves.

LUTZ

In congruence with his unique style, Lutz Huelle once again took us on a pleasing journey through draping and exquisite tailoring with his brand new F/W collection. A sober color palette in a wide array of materials were artfully draped in asymmetrical shapes that moved with great beauty down the runway. Shawl-neck dresses with a touch of animal print, belted mini trench coats, and cutout -shoulder jackets were all seamlessly intertwined to make a chic and refined statement.

MANISH ARORA

A kaleidoscope of colors graced the runway at this seasons Manish Arora show. Mixing sci-fi with art deco from the twenties era, Arora sent down candy colored outfits of emerald, fuchsia, canary yellow, orange and cherry red in extreme architectural shapes. The exaggerated shoulders and extreme curves of bubble skirts made many? of the pieces appear as forms of body armor. Arora stated ” The silhouette was inspired by the buildings from the 20′s era and the prints were futuristic cityscapes and neon signs from those buildings.” Each look was finished with cartoonish beaded hairstyles, LED headphones, and space-aged platforms.

—
FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERNEST AREGAL SALGOT, VIDEO EDITS BY ELIZABETH JONES

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL