PARIS A/W 2010 HAUTE COUTURE: THIMISTER, CHRISTOPHE JOSSE, GEORGES HOBEIKA, BASIL SODA, SAINT HILL + BASEDOW, LEFRANC FERRANT, XUAN THU NGUYEN

Thimister

After an eight year hiatus Josephus Thimister graced us with his return to the fashion world with his Fall Haute Couture collection titled “1915: Bloodshed and Opulence”. Thimister managed to intricately weave two themes from Russia’s tumultous history; bloodshed and military, into one seamless collection. The imagery centered around a photograph of Emperor Nicholas II’s murdered 13 year old son who was often found dressed in uniform as a child playing out into a romantic raw edged merging of Men’s and womenswear. Bloodspotted whites, rich reds, and shades of green mingled together on the runway amidst bloodstained furs and embroideries giving a very dramatic perspective on Russian history directly translated into Thimisters innovative take on Haute Couture.

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Christophe Josse

A mixture of genres was clearly present at the Christophe Josse Fall Haute Couture collection. The line was truly dedicated to Romanticism but with subtle edgy touches; a short hem, rolled sleeves and electric bright whites graced the runway.? Fabrics in watery grays, misty blues and soft pastels were presented in pieces that were beautifully draped to create a “lighter than air” look. Dresses were slightly too transparent to be used as wedding gowns but the stunning sequined black dress would be perfect for the red carpet.

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Goerges Hobeika

Studying under the likes of Chanel, George Hobeika is best known for his architectural designs and cut-outs. He presented his collection using silhouettes and colors, contrasting white with black and light with shadow. From Flesh-tones sheer fabric to red and canary yellow beading, he was determined to represent the meaning of Haute Couture with a transparency theme.

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Basil Soda

Relatively newcomer?Basil Soda presented his Haute Couture Fall Collection on the Parisian catwalks. Drawing inspiration from Greek culture the show was laden with gowns and dresses heavily embroidered in gold and silvers. Wide belts, corsets and one sided light coats were stitched with metal plates to make these standout accessories actually part? of the dress. Basil’s love of architecture was quite apparent with mermaid skirts dramatic waists and gorgeous draping, giving an overall modern greek goddess look to the entire collection.

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Saint ?Hill + Basedow

Husband and wife duo founded their design house Saint Hill Couture in 2001 and have since been producing some of the most renowned Haute Couture gowns in the industry. The British Embassy hosted the young designers Fall 2010 presentation which focused mainly on draping. The looks were refined and conservative and clearly not aimed at a young crowd. The color palette revolved around royal purples and rich pastels. The British Couture house is hoping to find sponsorship in France so that they may join the Federation of Couture which is proving to become an exceedingly difficult task.

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Lefranc Ferrant

The Old Chapel of The Couvent des Recollets in Paris was the recent home to the debut of the Fall/Winter 2010 collection of LeFranc Ferrant. Designer duo Beatrice Ferrant and Mario Lefranc utiilized corset like bodices and belts to enhance ultra feminine silhouettes. Rich smokey colors graced the runway with the occasional splash of blood orange, purple and beige thrown in to highlight the darkly romantic line.? The collection was perfect for the modern day woman and could easily be dressed up or down to go from day to night wear.

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Xuan Thu Nguyen

Vietnamese designer?Xuan-Thu Nguyen presented a unique collection with her mix of Old World skill and innovate techniques. Xuan somehow manages to close that seemingly large gap between haute couture and ready to wear looks. Her utilization of natural fabrics gives a delicate expression to the already fragile and modern line.

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Fashion week videos directed by Indira Cesarine

Photography by Ernest Aregal Salgot & Barbara Labate exclusively for XXXX Magazine