NEW YORK FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: MIMKHO, MONCLER, NAEEM KHAN, NARCISO RODRIGUEZ, NORMA KAMALI, ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

MIMKHO

Russian-born designer Olyia Mimkho debuted her very first collection with the debut of her line, Mimkho at the Fall 2010 New York Fashion Week. Somber music played while the models swayed slowly down the runway wearing gorgeous Russian inspired dresses. Having traveled frequently throughout Russian flea markets, antique stores and bookstores, Mimkho found her inspiration in her roots. Using natural fabrics she managed to weave together the two opposing themes of Imperial Russia and country village folk into a seamless collection. Sharp long sleeved architectural dresses, high-waisted military trousers, puffy silk shirts and floral prints were presented in an autumn pallet, with unique braided hair and bright orange lipstick to finish off the look.

MONCLER

Staged on a scaffold at the Chelsea Piers, the Moncler Grenlobe Fall 2010 presentation was one of the most original of this season. Over 100 models were flaunting this seasons chicest silhouettes of outerwear proving to the world that Moncler jackets can stand up to to even the coldest wind chills sent over the Hudson River. From chic city wear in flannel greys to the delicately hued bubble cape jackets and bubble shorts; Moncler has something to offer for every occasion.

NAEEM KHAN

Studded biker jackets, heavy metallics and punk rock hairstyles gave a disco ball glamour meets sexy rock n roll vibe to the Fall 2010 Naeem Khan collection. Long jersey gowns and shift dresses were so heavily embellished with beads, brocades and studs that it almost appeared as if the models were wearing jewelry rather than stunning dresses. Khan managed to make it work by integrating fur-trimmed vests, feathered skirts and wool cashmere caftans amidst the plethora of cocktail frocks and evening gowns.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Inspired by “beautiful curved lines and shadows”, Cuban-American designer Narciso Rodriguez didn’t stray far from the shapes that helped to make him famous. Dramatic coats, and short color blocked and ombre dresses stayed true to the designer?s minimalist style. The zip front dress with swirled brick red and gray was a knockout but the execution of the circular silk mikado inset on the front of the wool twill coat was by far the favorite of the show. Graceful lines appeared throughout the collection with bell shaped black shearling coats, double asymmetrical bodiced dresses in contrasting colors and cropped biker style jackets studded with nail heads. With this season laden with black ensembles, the bright pieces from this Rodriguez collection will stand out on the racks.

NORMA KAMALI

After 30 years in the fashion business Norma Kamali opened up her interactive “Style on Demand” presentation at her 56th St. flagship store. Not only was the flagship open to the fashion buyers and media but also to the public. Technology combined with fashion was the driving inspiration for this seasons installation, which occupied all five floors of the boutique; with each of the displays accompanied by ScanLife bar codes. Visitors could download the free iphone app and scan the codes to launch videos, press materials and even enter you to win clothing. The most exciting aspect of the collection was that you could buy and wear any piece in the store now instead of eagerly waiting seven months for the Fall collections to hit stores in September.

The collection focused on artisanal hand-crafted garments including swimsuits, outerwear, cutouts and stream lined silhouettes. Several pieces are accented with mother-of-pearl buttons, studs and safety pins that are all applied by hand; making each of these embellished piece unique. Not only was her signature OMO line on display but she also chose to integrate her eBay and Wal-Mart collections in the presentation, making the entire store accessible to every budget.

ORGANIC BY JOHN PATRICK

Finding his inspirations in the simple elegance of Lady Di and the hippie chicness of Joni Mitchell, John Patrick put together a lovely eco friendly, organic Fall 2010 collection. Not only was the clothing organic but also Patrick salvaged 8,000 plastic hangers directly from the dumpsters of NY to create a spider web, lattice backdrop for his runway show.

Simple and clean tailoring of 60′s and 70′s styled skirts and shift jackets were crafted out of vegetable tanned leather, recycled wool, silk chiffon and handwoven wool imported broom Scotland’s Harris Tweed company. The looks were completed with beehive hairdos and exaggerated cat eye makeup.

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Fashion week coverage & videos directed by?INDIRA CESARINE

Text by Katie Thurber and Emma Watkinson for XXXX Magazine