NEW YORK FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: MARC JACOBS, MARC BY MARC JACOBS, MAX AZRIA, MICHAEL ANGEL, MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH

MARC JACOBS

Stating that he was “over the celebrity thing”, Marc Jacobs and company President Robert Duffy reverted to the basics for the Fall 2010 ready to wear collection. Set in what was basically a cardboard box, the show put all the focus back on the clothing; which is what fashion is really supposed to be about. Effortlessly elegant american sportswear in plush cashmere, flannels and wools with a touch of metallics and sequins. Simple accessories of low-heeled ostrich and croc pumps with matching ankle socks and fur trimmed clutches made this show a classic direction for Marc Jacobs.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

Marc by Marc Jacobs marches into Fall 2010 in a military inspired line featuring red and olive green striped dresses, jackets with red piping, olive drab officer’s trousers and gold buttoned peacoats with the collection evolving into vintage style gold and ivory lacework lending undertones of delicacy and fragility to the diffusion line?s more aggressive side.? A tartan palette shows Jacobs? talent in subtle color placement with plaid wool blazers and strapless dresses while some more somber touches with black suiting and outwear demonstrate the designer?s flair for achieving understated elegance.

MAX AZRIA

A utilitarian aesthetic has emerged in Max Azria with a bold minimalism in the same realm as Celine and Chloe did for this Spring. Leather paneling, asymmetric draping, loose silhouettes and structured shoulders illustrate a playful experimentation with architecture whilst stunning graphite and mineral tones provide a clean backdrop for the collection.

MICHAEL ANGEL

Showing growth and a level of evolvement from his signature digital print work, Michael Angel has focused more on shapes this season, stating, ?I wanted the shape of the garments to stand out here, not the color.? He draws attention to the waistline with high waisted skirts, cinched waists and by using a black leather patent belt to style many of his looks for Fall 2010. There was sophistication to be found in his more textured looks while a move towards printed body-con silhouettes detracted from the overall coherence of the collection.

MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH

Charming, fun and flirty would best describe the French new wave classic designs for Milly by Michelle Smiths’ Fall 2010 Collection. Inspired by the films of Jean-Luc Godard, Michelle cleverly used combinations of bold hues, clean silhouettes and feminine attitude to achieve a uniquely modern yet classic line. The color palette played heavily on navy, black and ivory making each piece in the collection wardrobe staples. Rich fabrics of boucle, cashmere, sequins and leather helped to create an artfully layered look.

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Fashion week coverage & videos directed by INDIRA CESARINE

Text by Katie Thurber and Emma Watkinson for XXXX Magazine