NEW YORK FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: DEREK LAM, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, DOO.RI, DUCKIE BROWN, ELISA PALOMINO

DEREK LAM

While explaining the philosophy behind the collection, Derek Lam asked ?Hasn?t everybody at one point of another had the fantasy of being a cowboy? A Cowgirl?? Certainly, each of Lam?s models was styled as urban cowgirls with shearling bombers, cowboy hats, leather fringe detail and Navajo prints. Highlights of the runway were the streamlined caramel moleskin coat with black leather sleeves, a black and white knitted fox cardigan and the charcoal silk gazar flaring trousers.

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

The mood at DVF this season was very much metamorphosis or in the designer?s words ?A man?s life in a woman?s body?. It is all about the interplay between masculine and feminine and striking a balance that is both sexy and androgynous. The designer?s technique with layering and texture this season stood out as we witnessed chunky knits slung over delicate chiffon, a gray chiffon rosette bolero and a crystal corded black cardigan teamed with a tuxedo jacket.

DOO.RI

Doo. Ri opted for mixing plastic and wool; demonstrating that playing with textures and embellishments was an interesting concept for a designer whose strengths lie in tailoring and draping. Some truly spectacular pieces were the black sequin coat with a fur hem, fox furs dyed inky midnight blue and black and the vibrant plastic jewels used throughout the show.

DUCKIE BROWN

Designer duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silvers’ runway was colored with modern punk attitude. The?Duckie Brown collection favored heavy wool and tweed double-breasted blazers, a long red overcoat with double pocket placement were highlights of the line?s outerwear section with the punk elements coming into play with colorful plaid and tartan prints. There was also a strong focus on tailored silhouettes with mid calf cropped wool trousers and prominent jacket shoulders.

ELISA PALOMINO

Fall 2010 sees Elisa Palomino?s first collection under her own label. After working at Moschino Cheap and Chic and then for Galliano, the Spanish-born designer has infused her collection with gorgeous kimono floral motifs; tulle flapper dresses and layered chiffons. A celebration of feminine elegance and freshness, Palomino says, ?it is about making women feel good about their femininity and letting them show their vulnerability.?

—

Fashion week coverage & videos directed by Indira Cesarine

Text by Katie Thurber and Emma Watkinson for XXXX Magazine