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                  SUNDAY FEBRUARY 5TH, 2012

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: CAMILLA STAERK, CHARLOTTE RONSON, CHRISTIAN SIRIANO, CUSTO BARCELONA, DAVIDELFIN

CAMILLA STAERK

Camilla Staerk?s collection was all about the balance the designer interprets in the relationship between Helmut and June Newton, ?stylized? like Helmut whilst ?powerful and strong? like June. Her signature leatherwork was again prevalent this season, concentrating on the fluidity of liquid leather and liquid suede jerseys manifesting her inspiration. The sexy androgyny of the high waisted leather trousers and the femme fatale undertones of the sweetheart neckline leather dress are softened with flashes of nude and red.

CHARLOTTE RONSON

70?s Baroque forms Ronson?s inspiration with hippie chic sweeping skirts, embroidered dresses and flowing trousers. Most notable elements were the hair turbans, metal tinged tassels and the lace top and electric blue harem pants combination. Characteristic of Ronson, we saw lots of layering, volume, draping and rectangular silhouettes.

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

Brought to our attention just a few short years ago with his appearance in the fourth season of “Project Runway”, Christian Siriano has proved to a fiercely talented young designer; dressing the likes of Lady Gaga and Christina Hendricks. Classic sheaths, pencil skirts and sleek pants were seamlessly mixed with stunningly draped evening gowns. Rich fabrics of satin, silks and leathers in midnight black, fuchsia, and deep purples were fabulously combined with his show stopping heels, ruffles and antique furniture were his inspiration for this collection.

CUSTO BACELONA

Entitled ?Hairy Metal?, Custo?s Fall 2010 runway featured the expected psychedelic prints and patterns with a strong focus on texture. Fur, felts, metals and leathers mixed to energetic tones of bronze, steel, gold with graphics inspired by melted mercury, red hot iron and tin. Though the patchwork dip dye suits were eye catching, Custo?s outerwear was the star feature of the show.

DAVID ELFIN

Eleonora Bose (the Spanish model made famous in Tom Ford?s days at Gucci) opened the show for Madrid based designer David Elfin, ?and the clear focus of this collection was tailoring deconstructed. Celebrated for his clean lines and sophisticated cuts, Elfin presented boxy necklines and suiting elements against a palette of black, white and gray, every now and again injecting a touch of lively mustard, hot pink and snake print.

Fashion week coverage & videos directed by Indira Cesarine

Text by Katie Thurber and Emma Watkinson for XXXX Magazine

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