NEW YORK FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY, ADAM, ADRIENNE LANDAU, ALEXANDER BERARDI, ANTONIO AZZUOLO

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

Inspired by? “disco punk”, Phillip Lim’s collection was infused with 70′s influences with interesting contemporary twists. Some clear signifiers of the disco decade were the patchwork shearling coats, the camel short shorts, a gold lame` Le smoking suit and purple sequin embellished tops?worn under chunky knits. Also featured were some strikingly modern pieces; think leather gilets, soft tailoring, double denim ensembles and draped silk dresses.

ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY

Students of Simon Ungless (Director of Fashion and former longtime colleague of Alexander McQueen) at the Academy of Art University, presented their collections at Bryant Park this year to much acclaim. Marina Solomatnikova, inspired by Georgia O’ Keefe paintings, featured gray suede tailoring with modern cropped trousers and organza trims on jacket collars, with some lovely gray zip utility dresses. Whilst, Betthany Meuleners showed dramatic asymmetrical black floor length dresses with delicate layering and rich burgundy silk pieces. Drawing upon her prairie-style upbringing, Naomi Sutton used ivory lace pilgrim-like collars and played upon soft silhouettes, keeping everything monochromatic.

ADAM

Pretty tiered dresses, high belted waistlines and cowl necks were both trendy and timelessy chic. Leather accents, rich organic fabrics, and simple bias cuts made this ADAM collection yet another winner at the Fall seasons Fashion Week in Bryant Park. Especially gorgeous was the thigh length shearling overcoat in taupe and earthy brown.

ADRIENNE LANDAU

From Siberia with love comes to mind with Adrienne Landau‘s latest collection. Her use of rabbit and mink particularly, to create larger than life fur trim collars and Russian fur hats is spectacular. Teamed with sleek silhouettes, the look-at-me jackets feature cheetah prints with loud colorful flashes of lilac, fuchsia and citrus yellow.

ALEXANDER BERARDI

Native New York designer Alexander Berardi, chose Marlene Dietrich as his muse for this season’s collection. Visions of her captaining a luxury yacht ‘off the summertime shores of Martha?s Vineyard? combining classic Hollywood charm with New England sport luxe. Cue velvet skinny trousers, crisp white shirtdresses, tailored jackets and show stopping siren-red rosette dresses.

ANTONIO AZZUOLO

Azzuolo takes us to the Wild West for Autumn/ Winter 2010 with all-American cowboy hats, handmade blazers and cashmere trousers. Horse motif knits made in Peru paired with tapered tailored trousers give a sophisticated nod to the men of the ranch whilst the gray suiting, silver shoes and flashes of burnt orange throughout reach out to 21st Century city boy.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine

Text by Katie Thurber and Emma Watkinson for XXXX Magazine