LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: NATHAN JENDEN, NICO DIDONNA, NICOLE FARHI, OMAR, OSMAN, PAUL COSTELLOE, PEACOCK, PPQ

NATHAN JENDEN

“Church ladies in the jungle” was the theme for Nathan Jenden’s first collection after his life at the Diane Von Furstenburg design house. Zingy, elated colors were constructed into Forties-style tailored jackets, pencil skirts with flared kick pleats, and saucer hats. A gray jersey dress wrapped in a nude ruffle, the structured curve hugging zebra print dress and the one-shoulder dress composed of hot pink tiers that resembled a giant cake proved that Jenden is a master of tailoring. He is one to watch for seasons to come.

NICO DIDONNA

Deemed the hot new designer of 2010, Nico Didonna entitled his Autumn collection “Bright Young Things”. Focusing on the glitz and glamour of the “Roaring Twenties”, Didonna presented art deco pieces? in bright poppy colors of purple, coral and heather gray. Casual tweed ensembles with relaxed sweaters balanced out the? heavily embellished sequin and feather gowns adorning the female models. The standout piece was unquestionably the stark black sequined tuxedo suit.

NICOLE FARHI

Nicole Farhi kept her collection in a mostly black and gold fabric, woven satin or chiffon.? She had a variety of dresses, coats, skirts and tops, as well as pants.? She often threw a few plaid and floral pints into the mix of her collection.? She created many plunging necklines as well as neck covering or off centered neckline garments.? She prepared elegant ?easy-to-wear? clothing to wear for many occasions.

OMAR

Held in the Bedford & Strand bistro, Omar Kashoura presented his day-to-day menswear collection.? He had a simple elegance to his collection by hoping to put the attention on a ?man about town? type.? He included floral prints in his looks in either a shirt, bag, pants, or scarf.? He often combined a blazer or coat with his tweed trousers or just kept his looks with a thick, heavy sweater.

OSMAN

A definite mix of powerful garments, Osman Yousefzada put together a varied collection of shapes, textures, silhouettes, and fabrics.? He began the show different from most by deciding to put four models out on the runway in draping, navy dresses.? Among one outfit he sometimes comprised a metallic, wool, fur, and printed fabric in one, each in dramatically different colors.? He used diverse colors, ranging from a muddy brown to a vibrant pink with colors such as blue, pink, gray, and beige in between.?? He even had studded, jeweled shoes mixed with a considerably large, striking fur coat that continued with the variance of his collection.

PAUL COSTELLOE

Dublin born designer Paul Costelloe once again opened London Fashion Week, as he has over the past 5 seasons, with a fresh concept on tweeds in an “All-Black Atmosphere”.? Puffball and Victorian-style crinoline skirts in tweed, satin and jacquard fabrics with corset tops in checked fabrics and military inspired jackets. Leather, PVC, satin trousers, puffed sleeves, waistcoats and embellishments of sequins all kept to the Victorian theme while the shortened hemlines of skirts and dresses modernized the looks.

PEACOCK

Falguni and Shane Peacock gave a whole new meaning to the return of Eighties -inspired fashion. Chock full of twists and turns, the show featured brightly hued silhouettes with bold prints, tiered skirts, fringe embellishments, leather piping and an abundance of mesh. Architectural shoulders and cutout leather jackets gave a fresh and modern touch to this bright collection.

PPQ

Closing Saturday night at London’s fashion week; Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker of PPQ once again proved that they know how to make the ultimate suburban femme fatale. Parkas trimmed in black fur, gold leather trenches, leopard print lurex, keyhole necklines and harem pants. Party dresses like the black strapless velvet peplumed mini with gold trim and fringe or the tiered dress with the high ruffled neckline gives edgy rock and roll inspired options to the “little black dress”.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL