LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: LOUISE GOLDIN, LOUISE GRAY, MAN, MARIOS SCHWAB, MARK FAST, MARKUS LUPFER, MEADHAM KIRCHOFF

LOUISE GOLDIN

Space aged military threads were inspired by photos of Pierre Cardin’s graphic sixties work and body armor adorning the walls of Louise Goldin’s design studio.? Navy tunics, a-line skirts with 3-D geometric surfaces, matte-shine interlacing of leather, stingray and fox. Army and forest greens were sculpted into architectural jackets, dresses and yes, even skirts.? Goldin’s strengths lie in her knitwear and her origami-like structures with quilted effects, which were beautifully showcased in? this collection. Though many of the outfits looked like they would be suited for a sci-fi movie, some of the leggings, cargo pants and simple sweaters could be easily combined into an every day wardrobe.

LOUISE GRAY

A circus of colors, prints and textures were abound at the Louise Gray ready? to wear presentation in Paris. Gray used a chemical burning technique and layers of vibrant fabric to give her Eighties “dancing queen” nightclub garb a craft-like feel. A quilted red kimono with denim underlay and a mixed media dress showcased the technique well. Crimped hair, neon painted eyebrows and slouchy socks completed the looks for the Louise Gray girl.

MAN

London Fashion Week witnessed the first stand alone Topman Design show after the launch of the MAN event ten years ago. Influenced by European city apparel, the collection was composed of some of the most wearable designs the in house team has assembled since their launch in 2005. Camouflage prints and oversized tees led to unstructured wool jackets, paper bag trousers, and cozy knitwear in earth toned colors. Large collared trench coats, oversized hoods, and combat-style boots in aged leather would be perfect additions to any metropolitan man’s closet.

MARIOS SCHWAB

Changing his direction from a more intellectual approach in his fabrics, Marios Schwab created a collection with a more feminine and romantic appeal to it.? His fabrics were more flowing and his use of muted colors furnished a softer edge.? His use of jersey fabric also generated a sporty versatility.? He kept his colors muted but his soft shapes and detailing made it stylistically appealing.

MARK FAST

Courageously leaping away from the mainstream, Mark Fast featured three plus-sized models in his Fall 2010 runway show. Sticking to his convictions, Fast lost his show stylist over the inclusion of plus sized models and will surely be the center of a media frenzy where he may find himself accused of stirring up self-publicity.? The cult leader of skinny, cobwebbed knit dresses said he was inspired by Erin Brockovich and 20′s Egyptian silent-movie epics which would account for the feathery fringed skirt on a scoop neck dress and the incendiary girdle and bra in cinnamon. This season will surely find Fast in the spotlight; if not for his plus sized preference then most definitely for his unique techniques on knitwear.

MARKUS LUPFER

Held at the? Portico Rooms in Paris, Markus Lupfer opted for Warhol-esque presentation in lieu of a runway show. A fantasy world of crystalized teddy bears, panthers, gorillas, penguins and pandas with giant inflated lips and silver balloons gave the presentation a pop art appeal. Youthful mini a-line skirts, classic jumpers and t-shirts were adorned with rhinestone skulls; tartan dresses with a dusting of black beaded fabric; and chiffon-scrunched, bead embedded cropped jackets all stood out on silver hangers. The entire collection is completely wearable and perfect for the girls who want to have a little fun with their wardrobe.

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Branching out into romanticism, Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff broke their groove of black and navy deconstructed streetwear and presented a collection popping with color. Flowered dresses, lace veils and tinselly embroidery were piled into this visually assaulting show. Bias-cut Hollywood gowns, painted biker jackets, and stacks of bangle bracelets were a refreshing glimpse on the upcoming trends for this winter.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL