LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: JENNY PACKHAM, JOHN ROCHA, JONATHAN SAUNDERS, JULIEN MACDONALD, JULIAN J. SMITH, KINDER AGGUGINI, KRYSTOF STROZYNA

JENNY PACKHAM

Everything from fun, frilly cocktail to overtly large-bowed Kimono-style frocks to dramatic floor-length gowns–Jenny Packham seems to have something to fit the mood of the modern day woman wherever her next hot soiree might be.? Bold and beaded, sparkly-sequin paillettes, plunging necklines…the list could go on for days.? Packham created an eye-catching color palette ranging from simple blacks and whites to reds, pinks, blues, emerald green, plum, and even a rusty orange.? Some of the vibrant standouts include a fiery-red silk organza gown with giant bows tied at each shoulder and a flowing, long-sleeved deconstructed zebra-print gown with an extended-keyhole neckline and accents of turquoise at the neck and waist.

Update: Photography and Video footage of this show is by Daniel Herendi

JOHN ROCHA

It is clear that John Rocha has an enviable career, as he has been designing his men’s and women’s lines for twenty five years and counting.? Never missing the mark on aiming to please, Rocha went in a direction drawing inspiration from South America, borrowing motifs from both Guatemalan and Mayan cultures, for this year’s Autumn/Winter collection.? The designer counts himself as one who does not find his drive through trends, but rather through silhouettes, textures, and different surfaces themselves–as displayed through abundant ruffles on bowler hats to fitted dresses and rows of layered lace and silk on lady-like flowing dresses, A-line skirts, and even carrying over the detailing into men’s waistcoats and vests. With the chilly season still being kept in mind, Rocha’s thick knits and perfect-for-layering coats are sure to provide warmth “couture-style”.

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

Bursting onto the London Fashion Week scene seven years ago, Jonathan Saunders has been known for his intricately crafted graphic prints with a hint of London’s “Swinging Sixties”.? His pieces tend to have a very precise print designed to work with the overall shape of the garment, making each garment a work of art.? Paper-bag-waisted flouncy skirts, perforated dresses and knits, graphic floral motifs, and pastel stripes that bleed into each other are some of the highlights of this season seen on the Fall runway.? His demure color selection was sure to set a different, less harsh aesthetic as opposed to what is typically seen with fall collections.

JULIAN J. SMITH

Energetic music set the perfect mood for the mixture of?Central American native/Scandinavian “Ice Princess” which encapsulated?Julian J. Smith’s AW10 collection this year at LFW.? Although unusual, the combination was perfectly harmonic as Smith’s models strutted the runway.? Decked out in?pixelateddiamond prints with a traditional Native American color story (think turquoise, mustard and petal pink combined with pops of black), each look was shown with fringed booties, and a? futuristic-looking plastic headband. Shiny, black, silver, and acidy-green on puff-sleeved frocks and graphic splatter prints on blocked dress panels generated a sort of “robotic” look, rounding out the collection’s point of view.

JULIEN MACDONALD

Sophisticated outerwear and suggestive lingerie inspired attire were the mainstays at this impeccably styled show. A day and night rhythm was achieved through Julien Macdonald’s mix of knits and slinky evening wear contrasted by the luxurious fur-trimmed parkas and gray flannel jodhpurs. Cable stitched tops, short draped dresses, cobweb knit shirts and plissed dresses were gorgeous. Macdonald ‘s hybrid garments were truly unique; the black leather biker jacket attached to a navy wool skirt, and the dress that featured the bottom half of a jacket bonded to a negligee top were outstanding ensembles.

KINDER AGGUGINI

Truly a breakthrough collection for Kinder Aggugini, he found his inspiration in Madame Recamier (arch-saloniste of Napoleon era Paris) and presented her as hard- edged fashion with a touch of historical romance. Military-precise cuts, high collars, capes, and drummer boy jackets were presented in olive and drab greens with contrasting blood red trim were severe yet sexy looks. Flowing into a rock and roll style, Kinder presented skinny pants in shades of red, biker jackets in velvet, fuzzy bad girl sweater dresses. Ending on a high note, the designer showed muslin shirt-dresses, elegantly draped navy dresses and swag backed mohair-alpaca knits were a delicious addition.

KRYSTOF STROZYNA

Bold, forward thinking produced the fall collection for Central St. Martins graduate Krystof Strozyna. Inspired by Northern Lights, tribal art and shapes found in nature; the bodycon collection was big on dusty blushes, silvers, blues and purples. Zipper-structured skinny pants, pert mini biker jackets, chunky lucite accessories and sheath dresses composed a seriously sexy collection.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL