LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: HUSSEIN CHALAYAN, ISSA, JAEGER, JAMES LONG, JAMES SMALL, JENA THEO

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

ISSA LONDON

With a nod to eras of the past, Daniella Issa Helayel’s new Fall collection assumed a modern twist amongst the complimenting details: printed head scarves of the 50s, giant sunglasses and mod-prints of the 60s, 70s furs and flowy bohemian dresses, and 80s-inspired ankle booties, lace, glitter, and shrunken leather gloves.? Each model donned a punky pompadour which seemed like the perfect polar opposite to many of the elegant floor-length frocks.? Maintaining relevance for the chilly England climate, the bold red mock-neck cape over skin-tight black leather leggings create an effortless balance of both “dressed-up, dressed-down” for the modern woman.

JAEGER LONDON

Sticking within the realm of their classic style and smart tailoring and construction of each garment, Jaeger London used plaids, enlarged houndstooth prints, and caps reminiscent of a proper English rider to produce an urban equestrian vibe for their FW10 line at this years LFW.? Texture seemed to be prevalent with deep blue velvets, charcoal flannel, zippers, wide-knit wovens, and quilting.? Oversized 60s daisy prints in a color palette of violet, olive, and pewter were translated on long sleeved shift-dresses?and playsuits cinched at the waist followed by two-toned diamond prints in on silky slim trousers, dresses and blouses.

JAMES LONG

Inspired by the heat of a boiler room, James Long created a menswear collection consisting of leather, corduroy, and fur mostly in black and navy blue.? He looks had a tough edge in them with his ?biker? leather jackets and leather pants and gloves.?? His use of fur did not detract from the dark and moody look of his collection but rather added to it.? His flaming dark red and blue camouflage pieces, especially his jumpsuit pieced together the ?biker? collection.

JAMES SMALL

Having just started his label this year, James Small debuted his menswear collection for the first time at London Fashion Week.? With classic tailoring and clean lines in true English form, his designs are still very modern and cater to a large variety of men.? Black and white form the main palette with pops of reds, greys, blues, and silvers.? Small utilizes asymmetrical zippers and deconstructed plaid prints to complete the look.

JENA THEO

?Volume, folding and repetition, using daring amounts of fabric and playing with new silhouettes and negative space, beautiful forms are created on the body often with multi-functional qualities.? – Jenny Holmes & Dimitrius Theocharidis, creators of Jena.Theo

This statement couldn’t ring more true with the latest seen from this duo.? Playful prints in airy silks are translated on maxi-dresses, high-waisted collotes with suspenders, and blouses paired with the oversized: fuzzy sweaters (one is shaped like a tailcoat!), cozy calf-skimming coats, and boyfriend-cut trousers.? Slouchy leggings are also included in the mix to show some form and to offset some of the volume.

—-

FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL