LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: EMILIO DE LA MORENA, ERDEM, EUN JEONG, HERMOINE DE PAULA, HORACE, HOUSE OF HOLLAND

EMIILIO DE LA MORENA

Emilio de la Morena evokes other-wordly atmospheres with origami-style pieces that feature teal, brown and petrol hand painted prints. Collaborating with luxury knitwear line Loro Piana resulting in Russian military wool parkas in a collection that also displayed ink blot painting and abstract forms recreated in leather and appliqu?d on to sheer silk organza.

ERDEM

Inspired by his twin sister Sara?s documentaries on geography and natural history, the designer of Erdem has created feminine dresses in embroidery and lace again evoking the label?s signature delicate romance however with more somber moody grays livened by bird appliqu?s and fine yellow silk.

EUN JEONG

The 2008 Fashion Fringe winner allowed children’s pop-up books, Paris and movement to inspire her for Fall 2010, creating a collection that shows the Eun Jeong woman as someone who “isn’t shy”. She looks and feels proud of herself because her clothes are “unique”. Her design signatures of draping and tailoring were apparent on the London runway as the collection was full of textural elements. A palette of stark black, white and red featured along with some stunning draped silk dresses shown towards the end of the show were indeed “show-stopping”.

HERMIONE DE PAULA

She won the AW 2010-11 Merit Award from the Fashion Vauxhall “ones to watch” and with very good reason.? As seen in her most recent collection, Hermione de Paula displayed a mere optical illusion with her overstated hourglass silhouettes and sharp angles.? The use of loud patterns and fabrics in these ruffly, corseted shapes gave the otherwise body-contouring garment a “painted on” cartoon-like appearance with a punk rock twist.? Hard-edged yet staying true to the female form, indeed one of de Paula’s most interesting risque looks was the completely sheer plastic corset and gothic-esque leggings covered, only slightly, by a black overcoat.? Her contrasting black and white patterned catsuit/blazer combo was another stunner, with the sleeves of the blazer following the same sharp angles as the bodice.

HORACE

Effortless with edge is the best way to describe Horace, who’s designers Adam Entwisle and Emma Hales have yet again embodied an “unassuming cool” with their new fall collection.? With pieces like a billowing black cloak-like coat that encompasses with loads of cascading fabric that drapes down the front and the strapless layered tent dress with the tiniest pop of floral on either side of an otherwise all-black ensemble; the line speaks for itself.? It’s as if Entwisle and Hales borrowed inspiration from Milla Jovovich’s character “Leeloo” in the film The Fifth Element, with the models’ kool-aid washed hair, space-age ink stained printed dresses, and cobalt-blue bodysuits.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Known for his tongue-in-cheek phrased t-shirts popular amongst the fashion-saavy crowd, such as “Do Me Daily Christopher Bailey” and “I’ll Show You Who’s Boss, Kate Moss“, House of Holland designer Henry Holland has proven time and time again to have a knack for catchy slogans.? For his most recent collection, Holland has pulled inspiration from acronyms used on popular social networking websites like Facebook and Twitter to create a fresh new take on his of his buzz-worthy “It” tees.? With abbreviations like KMT (“Kiss My Teeth”) and DFW (“Down For Whatever”) in bold block lettering emblazoned across tees and sweaters paired with body-hugging bandage mini skirts and flashy legwear, he has managed to catch the attention of pop culture fashionistas (and even fashionistos) across the globe.? Head-to- toe contrasting sketch-looking paisley ensembles, hip hop-inspired jumpsuits, and “House of Holland” printed bandage dresses and skirts made for the perfect look taken from the likes of? “Snoop Dogg, ‘Biggles’ (Notorious B.I.G.), and Ghetto” for which Holland also drew inspiration.

FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL