LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: BOUDICCA, BRYCE AIME, CAROLINE CHARLES, CENTRAL ST MARTINS, CHARLIE LE MINDU, CHRISTIAN BLANKEN, CHRISTOPHER KANE

BOUDICCA

Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby transcend the commercial side of the fashion world with their “out-there” avant-garde approach, accomplished once again at this year’s London Fashion Week with the presentation of their Fall designs in a short film entitled “Essays”.? Boudicca, named for the Queen of Iceni (a legendary revolutionary in England) and debuting their first collection in Fall 2000, each year the duo continues to impress. Speaking volumes, literally, an element that can be seen throughout the collection is the “exaggerated sleeve” on many of the garments.? Cascading tulle and utility-like straps create pure drama in conjunction with the simplistic color palette of mainly black, white, azure, and rose. Many of the looks emulate sculptural works of art with large pieces of material encompassing the body and circular cut-outs that look like over-sized versions of a hanging mobile. Bottom line: history meets modern genius.

BRYCE DANICE AIME

Sculpture and shape is key to understanding Bryce Aime’s aesthetic as a designer and for Fall 2010, the collection certainly did not disappoint. Recently creating unique pieces for Rihanna’s video “Hard”, the designer evoked battle-like sentiment as the models marched defiantly down the runway in draped, layered skirts, prominently placed zip detailing varying in subtle femininity with the use of soft sheer fabrics.

CAROLINE CHARLES

Separating her collection into four different segments, Caroline Charles‘ Fall 2010 collection featured stunning hand-embroidered, embellished pieces and mixed in cashmere weaves, silk paisleys, Fair isle knits and suede fabrics. Though segmented, the overall tone of the collection reflected an 80′s sentiment. An Autumnal palette of saffron, olive and plum was used whilst oriental touches were seen with kimono-style obi belts.

CENTRAL ST MARTINS

CENTRAL ST MARTIN’S PRESENTS THE COLLECTION OF THIS YEARS GRADUATES AT LONDON FASHION WEEK

CHARLIE LE MINDU

Religious mysteries, black magic and the occult formed the focus of French celebrity hairdresser, Charlie le Mindu’s ‘off schedule’ London show. Extravagant hair sculptures that exhibited diamond encrusted crucifixes, an open faberge egg containing a miniature ballerina, stole the show. On the whole, this collection was more subtle, wearable, and sophisticated than seen previously from Le Mindu.

CHRISTIAN BLANKEN

The conceptual collection entitled by Christian Blanken as the ‘Road to War’, encapsulates all that the designer strives for to achieve his purpose of creating pieces that are ‘clean, tailored, sharp, luxe, and modern.’ Citing burnished gold, Japanese geometric wood block prints and contrasts between matte and shine as his inspiration the designer created a dramatic line for Fall 2010 that entertains easy, modern and interesting pieces.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

In the designer’s words, his collection was about ‘a deliquent teenager’. Prim black lace, paneled patent leather dresses and star-burst embroideries that assimilated the attributes of Priscilla Presley, a stunning patent leather flower embroidered biker jacket thats form is becoming a Christopher Kane staple were the main veins of the collection. Currently designing for Versus, Versace, a line for Topshop and also a mini brand on which he collaborates with his sister Tammy, great things are expected of this still young designer.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL