LONDON FASHION WEEK F/W 2010: ANNE SOFIE BACK, ASHISH, ASHLEY ISHAM, BASSO & BROOKE, BELLE SAUVAGE, BERNARD CHANDRAN, BODY AMYR & BORA ASKU

ANNE SOFIE BACK

Fascinated by virtual representation, designer Anne Sofie Back was inspired by her virtual avatar in popular game, Second Life for a conceptual collection. Muscles were a recurring motif emphasizing the exaggerated body forms the online alter egos take. White transparent tulle gowns were paired with black jerseys whilst daringly cut gray suede dresses raised a few eyebrows.

ASHISH

The designer Ashish, celebrated for his beautifully embellished pieces, claims his original inspiration for Fall 2010 was a gypsy girl he saw outside the Gare du Nord in Paris.?She was wearing mad printed pajamas and a big cardigan on top, and looked so cool. I was really inspired by that, and it grew from there.? The true jewel in this collection is how the designer has blended high fashion eveningwear with chunky and slouchy knitwear adding an element of grunge to the sequined line. He succeeded in creating a young, fresh edge by merging his usual high glamour with oversized masculine tailoring.

ASHLEY ISHAM

An array of mixed fabrics brought together Ashley Isham?s collection this winter.? Starting out with an intertwining deep purple plastic fabric over a nude fabric, he played with this sixties plastic for the next few outfits.? His use of clear, purple, and blue tinted plastic brought a glossy sheen to his looks.? He emphasized the attention to the neck and shoulder area either by creating a dramatic high collar, oversized shoulder pads, or by a single, elegant, one strap dress.?? A dramatic change takes place from his deep-colored, retro, futuristic beginning looks to his vibrant-colored, elegant evening looks toward the end.? Each of his outfits had a certain gleam to it on the runway that really brought the collection together.

BASSO & BROOKE

Basso & Brooke traveled to the far corners of the earth in search of inspiration for Fall 2010. A two week excursion to ancient Silk Road and Samarkland, where the borders of East and West originally lay nearly a millennium ago. The trip was not unsuccessful as it yielded a world of textures, colors, patterns and prints that were translated onto the Fall runway at London Fashion Week. It was these that formed the focus of the collection whilst the clothes themselves took on more understated shapes such as a parka, coat-dresses or even a jersey evening dress, allowing the print collages of mosaic, snakeskin and feathers to speak for themselves.

BELLE SAUVAGE

Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman of Belle Sauvage made science and technology their focus with a conceptual collection that a had a distinctly futuristic feel. Using H.R. Giger as their muse, the designers experimented with bold fuchsia, blue and black digital prints and combined some interesting tailored leatherwork pieces.

BERNARD CHANDRAN

The Malaysian born, Paris educated Bernard Chandran mixed textures and toyed with shape for Fall 2010. Styling the models as modern Geishas was an interjection of edge that emphasized the bold elements of the sequined eveningwear that was accompanied by oversized metallic clutch bags. Power shoulders and stiff cord belts finished with metal edges contributed to the more structural focus of the collection and though the feathers seemed to add only in congruence, the rest of the collection was strong enough to withstand the digression.

BODY AMYR

Inspired by a “sharp-witted woman who embraces both her masculine and feminine sides”, Bodyamr designer and founder Amr Ali has managed to capitalize on that vision with his AW 2010 collection.? By using hard-edged feminine designs tinged with masculine elements, he mixed pieces like billowy high-waisted pleated trousers with sexy deep-v blouses and sequin capelets.? Ali’s remarkable Fall collection also boasts bold jewel-toned cocktail dresses parlayed together with linear, knotted textures; shimmery, flowing, goddess-like cut-out gowns….and a plethora of eye-catching legwear.

BORA AKSU

Romantic, yet cutting edge, Bora Aksu sent out a collection this fall that he described as ?embracing the innocence, angst, and confidence of late adolescence?.?? The colors on the tops were a beautiful mixture of pale grays, baby blues, blush, lilac, and beige, which formed the innocent, charming look.? However, to give more of an edge, he often paired these romantic, skeletal knotting knit tops with tight, black leggings, cut, and pieced together for an edgy look. ??His use of texture ranged from sheer, light fabrics, to a cobweb-like cut out of fabric, to a more thick and ruffled play with volume which all emulated femininity.

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FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE

PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL