“The Wanderer”?

“The Wanderer”,?Shot by photographer Willy ?Vanderperre, is the latest multimedia editorial campaign by?Dior Homme. The project was specifically conceived by Dior Creative Director, Kris Van Assche, and is oriented to the “new connected?generation that gets its fashion and trend information from online?magazines and blogs.” The “alternative?communication?endeavor” consists of a series of nine photographs of the Fall Winter 2011-2012 collection shot with an editorial point of view, as well as a fashion film ?called the “The Wanderer”. The images present a rather mysterious and isolated suburban landscape juxtaposed with the streamline cut of the dramatically lit silhouettes from the fall collection. ?Slim tailoring and monochromatic tones are juxtaposed with flashes of red. The radically modern aesthetic of Dior Homme is unmistakable, with the photo and video series encapsulating the nonchalant elegance Kris Van Assche is known for.
Aside from giving a new insight into the collection, the project?promotes Dior Homme in an alternative way to the plugged-in generation. Dior has blasted the images featuring model?Victor Nylander to select online magazines and blogs, creating a buzz about the striking collection and edgy imagery as well as their ultra modern viral marketing approach.?The project itself brings to light the fact that luxury brands such as Dior are opening up more and more these days to a new concept of marketing outside the traditional advertising approach of paying for pages in print publications. ?The buzz created from online marketing and viral campaigns can easily surpass that of print publications by way of the shear numbers that have the opportunity to view the imagery with the immediacy of the internet. ?It will be interesting to see how many other brands follow suit by blasting their own editorial productions geared primarily for online magazine and blog readers. It certainly could become the trend of the future, with exponential numbers tuning in to online publishing. ?We are looking forward to seeing the Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2012 viral campaign.

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER?HAUTE COUTURE ?- PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Alexandre Vauthier, who presented his first haute couture line in 2009 after working at Mugler and Jean Paul Gaulthier, recently showed his collection for Fall/Winter 2011 at Haute Couture week in Paris. The show took place at the Bibliotheque des Genovefians, the library inside of Lyc?e Henry IV, perhaps the most prestigious high school in all France with alumni such as Sartre, Foucault, and Guy de Maupassant. An hommage to Valentino and his red dresses, the show speaks to the greatness of its inspiration and places Mr. Valentino beside those great thinkers and artists that spent their formative years in the school. In a beautiful old library bathed in hot red light, how fitting that the collection should be a bit racy, sexy, yet sophistocated – taboo yet grounded.

According to Vaulthier, the starting point for the collection was the Rouge Baiser, or “red kiss,” by Ren? Gruau, a series of campaign posters created to promote a lipstick. Several pieces maintained this vintage and glamorous vibe through dramatic draping and fluttering trains. Modernity stepped in with the choice of materials and several details such as the piped ribbing and the downward slanting shoulder silhouettes.

However, a few of the dresses with hemlines that just did not quite hide everything and?the finale “Football jewel structure” created by Pierre Annez de Taboada were distractions and somewhat crude next to an otherwise luxuriously beautiful collection. Feathers, Swarovski crystals, rich furs…it glittered, sparkled and satisfied, but leaves a little room for questions.

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION VIDEO

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Fashion week coverage directe by Indira Cesarine
Runway photos by Pascale V Marquis

Article by Amy Tabarly

ALEXIS MABILLE – PARIS F/W 2011?HAUTE COUTURE?FASHION SHOW

In an array of feathers, crepe and organza, the fall couture collection from Alexis Mabille, the 33 year old?Lyonnais?French couturier lived up to his pension for extravagance. Inspired by the classic French fables from Jean de la Fontaine, each look was a different animal: an ant, a swan, a frog, etc. Some of the interpretations are subtle and others more literal, such as the fox, a velvety burnt orange dress with a large fox fur sleeved bolero and two fox tails tied around the waist.

The breath taking parts of the collection were the simplified ones that departed more from the fable, such as the frog, ?an enormous emerald green silk dress that let the proportion and beauty of the fabric make a statement – not all the added feather and furs.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine
Article by Amy Tabarly

ARMANI PRIVE – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Kimono, kimono. Armani Priv? has latched on to Japan full force, with obi-inspired belts, kimono collars, and origami folding. Cherry blossom prints made appearances, but also a few prints that are reminescent of asian florals, that were less than literal thankfully. The cuts of jackets and tops kept the Asian inspiration in the forefront, and the tightness of the pant suits spoke of a current Asian fashion sense.

The decision to have Philip Treacy create headpieces for the collection outweighed the tried “exotic culture” remakes. And then that mini jacket! Little fans layered almost like scales. The collection rises steadily to culminate with stunning sequin gowns in an unexpected orange hue. Although Armani took on a theme that could have easily gone straight into the bin, finally the collection maintained a high level of elegance and refinery.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly

CHANEL?HAUTE COUTURE?- PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

The retro-feel at?Chanel’s haute couture show was injected with modernity. Held at the Grand Palais, Karl Lagerfeld had a neon Place Vendome recreated to honor Coco Chanel, who spent many of her years living at the Ritz there, and where there is still a Chanel boutique. Why use a replica when you have the actual thing just steps away? To reinvent your own version of course. Lagerfeld’s nearly sci-fi rendition added to the mysterious allure of the collection.

Mystery abounds for the collection entitled Les Allures de Chanel, and the muted color palette aids in creating this special atmostphere. The classic Chanel tweed suits shone this season in a peplum silhouette paired with pencil skirts with hems that stayed close to the knee. As always, Karl Lagerfeld has a way of creating classic and inventive remakes that are absolutely wearable and stunning alongside long elegant gowns that use patterns, beading, feathers and lace to create what will surely be a new classic in years to come.

For the finale, the models all returned in the pitch back with light-up LED platforms that illuminated the space. The allure of Chanel lives on. Chez Chanel somehow manages to stay current through each collection while staying true to the style and feel of what Coco created long ago.

CHANEL?HAUTE COUTURE?- PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION VIDEO

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE – PARIS F/W 2011
(IMAGES BY KARL LAGERFELD)

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Fashion Week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Runway Photos by Pascale V Marquis for XXXX Magazine

CHANEL JOAILLERIE – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION

The Chanel Joaillerie Haute Couture collection for Fall/Winter 2011 is exquisite. The collection Contrastes, revolves through shades of contrast and brilliance. Inspired by Orpheus and his hypnotic musical gift, the presentation opens with a stunning broach displayed on a harp, which shadow reveals a ghostly hand playing it.

As you traverse into the next space, a video installation shows the cycle of the moon above a collection of cascading pearls alongside the duality of white gold contrasting yellow gold; embroidered miniscule flowers contrasting embedded diamonds; yellow diamonds contrasting pure white diamonds.?The style mixes baroque with art deco in an added element of variation.

Next, a collection including a necklace, ring, bracelet and set of earrings, take on the eliptical shape of the waxing (or waning) moon. Each piece is scattered with moonstone, diamonds, onyx in a constellation of differing shapes and feel. Even the mounting takes on a discrete floral shape underneath the stones, like a web of flowers blooming secretly underneath. The evidence of life is cleverly hidden in most pieces, and overtly in the only colorful pieces, a set of emerald earrings with blue marine accents and a large pearl center.

All throughout this 33 piece collection there is the obvious light/dark comparison, but then, deeper than that, there is the contrast of flourishing life blossoming juxtaposed with death, just like in the tragic myth of Orpheus who could not save his beloved wife. Melancholy, yet still bursting with the brilliance of the perfection of each stone.

CHANEL JOAILLERIE – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION VIDEO

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Photos by Pascale V Marquis

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CHRISTIAN DIOR?HAUTE COUTURE??- PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Christian Dior, a fashion house that has been turned upside down with Galliano’s dramatic exit, has yet to find it’s balance. While the haute couture collection for Fall/Winter 2011 included beautiful moments, such as the head pieces from Stephen Jones, ghastly things happened in the middle of the collection. It is as if there Bill Gaytten has a triple split personality, as the collection went in too many directions.

The ultra mod, hyper-colored beginning morphed nicely with different textures, prints, and angles, but suddenly – in the middle of the collection – there appeared these terrifyingly overdone printed pieces that were a bad retake on the disco/early 80′s, teased, big hair included, having nothing to do with the first series of looks.

Yet, then again at the end, it got better, the final gowns were oversized A-line celestial numbers that might have been a little over the top with the clown collars, but at least they saved us from the horror of the disco.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly

DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION

A young Indonesian designer,?Didit Hediprasetyo drew inspiration from Dubussy’s Clair de Lune from the Suite bergamasque for his Fall/Winter 2011 collection. Wanting to bridge the graceful and elegance of auditory art with fashion, Hediprasetyo interpreted the piece subtly invoking thoughts of moon lit evenings. Presented in the Hotel de Crillon, Hediprasetyo’s couture collection fit in seamlessly?with the beauty of the location while musicians played Debussy on the piano and harp.

Some choices left me with questions. Why, for example, was it necessary to line sage green velvet dresses with a bright magenta satin? Other choices left me speechless. A skirt of swan feathers with a jersey knit top? Of course! Genius.

Also, in support of his homeland, Hediprasetyo used Songket, a silver-threaded Indonesian brocade, for several well draped dresses and trenches. The cuts are slightly altered from classic forms, yet maintain a fresh modernity with assymetry and specific details, like the special cuts on tops and dresses in the back which give the back a lovely form.

DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011?HAUTE COUTURE?FASHION SHOW

DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011 BACKSTAGE

Rosy lips had lighted smudges that came off as if they were perhaps reflections of the moonlight, or marbled like a rippled reflection on the water. The hair styling was sleek and simple. The look at Hediprasetyo is simple and elegant, with a dab of the sparkle of the moonshine.

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Fashion Week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Backstage and Runway Photos by Pascale V Marquis for XXXX Magazine

GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE?- PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Stunning and delicate, Riccardo Tisci’s haute couture collection for Givenchy Fall/Winter 2011 awes with its intricate and painstaking details. Nearly every small thing was hand made or hand cut and took months to fabricate. The complexity is like that of any masterpiece, clear and beautiful from a distance but at closer inspection, is filled with flurries of thought and immaculate construction.

In an all white palette, Tisci’s aim was paradise and purity, and each of the hand appliqu?d feathers, beads, pearls, tiger’s-eye pearls, crystals juxtaposed with plastic large zippers and sexy transparency added depth and dimension to his noble ambition.

Highly flattering to the body, the lightness of the fabric appears to float softly on the body in spite of the immense amout of work involved in their creation. Each dress skims the body and falls gently to the floor. These are the gowns of goddesses.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine
Article by Amy Tabarly

GUSTAVOLINS – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Collection 017 from Gustavo Lins focuses on traditional couture techniques and mingles them with luxury fabrics and materials such as silk jersey, japanese cr?pe, cashmere, and mink.

The Asian inspiration is undeniable, and the touches of braided copper and mink and fox furs were warm enhancements in this collection with a predominately dark and cool color palette. The printed silks are stunning and seem to float on the body – a Gustavolins specialty. With low dipping necklines and sheer slips, there are elements of subtle celebration of the female form.

The long and flowing silhouettes that came from the bias cut dresses bring the traditions of couture to the forefront and celebrates the art of crafting garments. To complement this theme, video artist Federico Cimatti created a short film for the collection revealing their construction that screened during the runway show.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Photos by Pascale V Marquis for XXXX Magazine