DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION

A young Indonesian designer,?Didit Hediprasetyo drew inspiration from Dubussy’s Clair de Lune from the Suite bergamasque for his Fall/Winter 2011 collection. Wanting to bridge the graceful and elegance of auditory art with fashion, Hediprasetyo interpreted the piece subtly invoking thoughts of moon lit evenings. Presented in the Hotel de Crillon, Hediprasetyo’s couture collection fit in seamlessly?with the beauty of the location while musicians played Debussy on the piano and harp.

Some choices left me with questions. Why, for example, was it necessary to line sage green velvet dresses with a bright magenta satin? Other choices left me speechless. A skirt of swan feathers with a jersey knit top? Of course! Genius.

Also, in support of his homeland, Hediprasetyo used Songket, a silver-threaded Indonesian brocade, for several well draped dresses and trenches. The cuts are slightly altered from classic forms, yet maintain a fresh modernity with assymetry and specific details, like the special cuts on tops and dresses in the back which give the back a lovely form.

DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011?HAUTE COUTURE?FASHION SHOW

DIDIT HEDIPRASETYO – PARIS F/W 2011 BACKSTAGE

Rosy lips had lighted smudges that came off as if they were perhaps reflections of the moonlight, or marbled like a rippled reflection on the water. The hair styling was sleek and simple. The look at Hediprasetyo is simple and elegant, with a dab of the sparkle of the moonshine.

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Fashion Week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Backstage and Runway Photos by Pascale V Marquis for XXXX Magazine

JANTAMINIAU HAUTE COUTURE – PARIS F/W 2011 PRESENTATION VIDEO

Entitled Nature Extends, Jan Taminiau‘s newest couture collection transports his audience into a fantastical world. His seemingly partial human creatures appear to be something born from the depths of a mythical forrest.

Especially impressive was his manipulation of unusual materials, most significantly, of cork. Spiralling flowers that open up to blossom around the neck, or legs completely covered with this supple woody material are initially baffling but perfectly done. Also adding to the other worldly feeling are the sky-high heel-less platform shoes that made the models seem about seven feet tall, and also with the peculiar shape that the shoes give to the leg, the girls resembled satyresses, the female version of the mischievous half man half goat satyrs.

Taminiau plays with the idea of extension not only literally with the height of the shoes, but also the cut of the dresses. Steeped in curiousity, Taminiau questions what it would be like if we stretched back the skin, if we exposed what is underneath. He calls us to imagine a tall creature running though the wood, being scratched by branches and brambles at each moment. In a neutral color palette of beiges, tans, and touches of gold, the fabrics look as if they are second skins.

Highly different in comparison to last season’s collection Irradiance, Nature Extends is subtly violent but highly romantic. Taminiau’s couture remains like artwork – artwork that you want to wear, even if just for a moment.

JANTAMINIAU HAUTE COUTURE – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

JANTAMINIAU HAUTE COUTURE – PARIS F/W 2011 BACKSTAGE

In keeping with the woodsy romantic/violent feel, the make-up was natural if not a little ruddy. The hair was perfectly placed and subsequently acquired the windswept look, evoking the feel that the models had just gone for a run through the Bois de Vincennes.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine

Video directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan

Backstage interview by Indira Cesarine
Runway and Backstage photos by Pascale V Marquis

Article by Amy Tabarly

HENRIK VIBSKOV – PARIS S/S 2012 PRESENTATION VIDEO

A eclectic mix of fabrics and concepts, the Henrik Vibskov show of their newest collection for Spring Summer 2012 mixed a textured hipster vibe with the classics of menswear, drawing out a mostly young audience.

At the start of the show, the beret-topped, double-decked glasses wearing models walked from nearly transparent room to the next in a set arranged in a high school courtyard. After a subdued array of colors, prints, and knits passed through, four black trenched men entered the scene and began rotating the set work. The models continued walking passing in the same manner, with the rooms also spinning around them – as if they were moving through new dimensions.

Since the designs themselves are rather theatrical at times, its only natural that the show itself should follow suit. However theatrical, the majority of the collection is wearable, with really the only exception being jackets with exaggeratedly padded shoulders topped by a miniature wooden yoke.

Especially strong aspects in the collection were some of the drop-crotched pants and leggings. This silhouette was consistent, and paired with larger proportioned jackets and shirts buttoned all the way up, the looks were still grounded and not too “out there” – even if its what they were going for.

HENRIK VIBSKOV – PARIS S/S 2012 FASHION SHOW

HENRIK VIBSKOV – PARIS S/S 2012 BACKSTAGE

To add to the texture of the collection, the models carried an unpolished look, with long, untamed hair and beards being the most obvious attribute.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Article by Amy Tabarly
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Runway Photos by Pascale V Marquis
Backstage Photos by Sarah Takako Skinner

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK – PARIS S/S 2012 PRESENTATION VIDEO

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK – PARIS S/S 2012 FASHION SHOW

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK – PARIS S/S 2012 BACKSTAGE

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine
Video Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Karc Chan
Runway and Backstage Photos by Pascale V Marquis exclusively for XXXX Magazine

AGANOVICH – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – VIDEO BY XXXX MAGAZINE

Ethereal shades of blues in intricate layers of fabric coupled with skinny white tights was what Serbian born designer, Aganovich?s Fall collection was all about. Dreamy and abstract, this collection was almost entirely influenced by the color, Blue. All the fabrics used, from Silk to Satin, Denim and Velvet ? were between shades of Cobalt and Aquamarine. The extravagant hair styles combined with the creamy white tights were evocative of 15th century French Royalty.

Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Video Footage by Sarah Skinner, Video edit by Michaela Vatcheva

AGANOVICH – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – VIDEO NICHOLAS CARRIER FOR XXXX MAGAZINE

AGANOVICH – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY

At Aganovich Fall Winter 2012, side parts and low ponies paired with pops of blue around the eyes.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine

AMAYA ARZUAGA – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – COVERAGE BY XXXX MAGAZINE

As Athena’s?designer Kalogirou puts it, “Although not of the biggest names of the Paris fashion week, Amaya Arzuaga did one of the greatest collections for the upcoming season. Bright colours, interesting pleating detailing on geometric silhouettes and modern long gowns for evening. The makeup and hair were also great : braided little buns and clean and shiny faces. I’m sure it’s going to be a hit.” Inspired from the shape and form of a butterfly, this intensely sculpted collection looks at the structure of an insect from a whole new perspective. From finely arched vests to slender bi-colored pants, the whole collection seems like a flawless endeavour.

AMAYA ARZUAGA – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY

Each model sported dewy make-up and a chignon, simple yet beautiful to enhance the designs.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Photos by Joanna Zielinska for XXXX Magazine

ANDREA CREWS – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

Known for her notorious and path-breaking sense of style, Andrea Crews? fall collection screams eccentricity and twisted humour in her show entitled “Les Morts Vivant de la Mode”. The collection kicked off with models draped in full-length silk dresses and fake-blood patches around their eyes. What followed was pure chaos, with extreme runway drama, loud electric music and a string of ?unwearable? clothes. Two sneakers sewn on each foot, ripped sportswear held together by a single pin and other delightful surprises broke the audience into fits of delightful hysteria.

ANDREA CREWS – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY

From soft curls to tightly twisted buns, the hair styles changed from piece to piece. The make-up differed from look to look in a chaos of shape-shifting. Full face coverings and large headpieces were often in place instead of intricate make-up which would sometimes even consist of heavy eyeliner and bloody tears.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Photos by Pascale V. Marquis for XXXX Magazine

ANDREW GN – PARIS F/W 2011 BACKSTAGE – PHOTOS BY XXXX MAGAZINE

Inspired by the architect Pierre Chareau and interior designer Eileen Gray, Andrew Gn designed a line for fall 2011 that consisted mostly of structured tops, outterwear, and a few flowing gowns. Interwoven braids created an additional textural detail that complemented each look.

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Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Photos by Lorenzo

COMMUUN – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – VIDEO BY XXXX MAGAZINE

Going with the customary trend this season of primary colors against black and white, the Commuun collection was an interesting mix of colors and breakthrough design. Designers Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate played with opposing textures like sheer against fur and glossy against flat. Example: Wide horizontal striped dresses in solid rainbow colors, each row switching between wool, shearling, and see through materials.

COMMUUN – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW

COMMUUN – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY

With graphically sculptural hair twists and pops of fuschia and marigold around the eyes, the hair and make-up at Commuun were extra shots of personality into each look.

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Fashion week coverage directed by?Indira?Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Photos by Pascale V. Marquis, Backstage Photos & Video Footage by Sarah Takako Skinner, Video Edit by Michaela Vatcheva

DEVASTEE – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – VIDEO BY XXXX MAGAZINE

Gothic. Grunge. Dark. These are the words that best describe the Devastee Fall 2011 collection. Smoky blacks, pale-skin whites, bone-clay jewelry, grungy sweaters with the Mona Lisa smiling back, all combine to generate a coherently ?dark? collection. The ones that really stood out of all the black were gray wool vests, long white tunic dressess and a silvery-white embroidered belted coat.

DEVASTEE – PARIS F/W 2011 FASHION SHOW – BACKSTAGE BEAUTY

Exaggerated and extended charcoal eye make-up paired with slicked and center-parted hair that fell over the models’ faces created an eerie look to match the designs.

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Fashion week coverage directed by?Indira?Cesarine for XXXX Magazine
Photos by Lorenzo, Video Footage by ?Sarah Skinner, Video Edit by Michaela Vatcheva